From Hotel Vladivostok to Hotel Vostok

Day 99 Saturday 9^th July 2011 

We woke at daybreak which a quick check on the mobile phone display showed at around 6.30pm and we started packing which was not at all easy in the sticky mud surroundings. We also discovered that we had camped not far from an open cess pit and as the wind had changed direction the stench was overpowering I used the toilets in the car park for a pee and I had to hold my breath as I peered down into the hole that passed as the toilet, two wooden planks to stand on and crap into the abyss – I was thankful that my stomach had not been filled and I was able to miss the wonders of this Russian toilet facility.

You would not believe the smell  !

As we packed we noticed a young couple in a Land Cruiser who had stayed overnight as well and it turned out to be Graham and Brigitte, a English couple, who had lived in Vancouver for the last 14 years and who were now going west as we were. It appears that they already knew of us, “Ah, so you are the English guys who were stuck in Vladivostok for a month waiting for their bikes”. It transpired that they had used Yuri Melnikov as their customs agent as had we. They finished packing before us and we waved them goodbye as they left on their journey.

We packed up all our gear and decided against having a coffee and set out on the road again. The weather had improved and it was good to be riding again but I was feeling a little off balance probably through broken sleep and no food, not a particularly good combination. The road was good for a while then it became peppered with small sections of roadworks all the way to Khabarovsk. We stopped at the edge of the city to take our pictures at the large stone sculpture spelling “Khabarovsk” in Russian Cyrillic and we met Graham & Brigitte again who said that they were going to stay in the city for a couple of days. We took the decision to carry on through and see what delights were on offer on the road.

Mark on his bike at Khavarovsk

We negotiated the city roads without problem and the route was OK for a few miles until we came across another large section of roadworks which were thankfully dry and we took our path through  the muck. Mark stopped to set up his video camera  and I carried on and was grateful to get to the other side unscathed. I jumped off my bike with my camera and got ready to video Mark coming out of the track but when I turned back and looked at my bike I realised that I and the bike were covered in large hornet like creatures that were buzzing all around me and settling on the bike. I quickly gave up any notion of being a film director and got back on the bike pronto. It fired up and off I sprinted leaving these little stinging devils behind me. We stopped a few times along the route to take pictures and each time the bikes were swarmed by these things within a matter of seconds. 

We stopped for fuel and these things still persisted in buzzing around us and the bikes but we noticed that after a while they gave up and went off so we presumed that they must have a liking for the carbon monoxide coming from our exhausts. The fuel station had a little shop so we managed to pick up some crisps and biscuits to stuff ourselves with and that helped to boost our energy levels up to something approaching normal.

Not to be caught out again and have to camp in the mud, our plan was to stay on the road until around 4pm then start looking for a place to stay or camp.  The map showed the next large town beyond Khabarovsk was Birobidzhan which was set within the Jewish Autonomous District of Siberia. We found the sign for the city and turned off the main highway following the Trans Siberian railway for a while until it slewed off to the right whilst the road went left towards a large sign welcoming all to the city. We took what seemed like a ring road which eventually came to a T junction. “Which way” said Mark on the intercom – “Right” I replied and just as we were turning my eye caught the Cyrillic word for gastinitsa immediately opposite the T junction. We did a U turn and found that it was indeed a fancy hotel – The Hotel Vostok – which translates as The East Hotel.  No internet but air conditioning compensated.

Hotel Vostok

We parked up outside and I found my phrasebook which was just as well because the receptionist spoke as much English as I did Russian (in fact she spoke no English at all – at least I know a few words now). We finally managed to get through to her what we wanted and it wasn’t long before we were in a warm shower (not together I hasten to add!). We were told that our bikes would be safer parked in the secure parking at the rear (I think that’s what she meant anyway) so we parked up as directed but not before being stiffed for 100 roubles parking charge for each bike.

We found a local cafe and did the pointy thing with the menu and had our first proper meal in two days and a couple of cold beers – ah luxury at last.